Is There a Fancy-Shape Diamond in Your Future?
A Gemologist Offers Tips on Making an Informed Purchase

Couture fashions may be reserved for the world's wealthiest women, but even everyday shoppers won't necessarily settle for off-the-rack designs. From Levi's customizable jeans to Nike's design-your-own athletic shoes, fashion-savvy women are choosing wardrobes that reflect their own individual style.

When it comes to buying diamonds, "fancy" shapes (anything except round) are affording exciting new options that go way beyond the traditional. The choices are dizzying…and escalating as manufacturers rush to create their own signature cuts.

"The round solitaire diamond is still favored. It's classic, flatters everyone's finger, and has the most sparkle," says Sharrie Woodring, FGA, GG, senior gemologist at EGL USA, a leading North American independent gem laboratory. "But we're also seeing a significant rise in fancy shapes, such as princess cut and marquise, the second and third most popular cuts coming through our lab for certification."

Selecting from marquise, pear, oval, heart, triangular, octagon, emerald cut, cushion cut, radiant or princess cut-and their many variations-can be a daunting proposition. And refinements in cutting techniques have resulted in fancy diamonds in highly unusual shapes. An adventurous type might consider a diamond that's a work-of-art: a butterfly, a fish, an American eagle, Buddha, a horse's head, or a rosebud.

Woodring suggests buying from a well-established professional jeweler when selecting a diamond-round or fancy. "A good retailer will help you through the purchase process, but a little education on your part will give you more confidence in making your selection," says Woodring. Following are her insider tips for choosing an exquisite, fancy-shape diamond:

Purchasing a Quality Fancy-Shape Diamond

• When selecting for color, line up several stones to compare. View the stones face down (point on top) in bright light and against a white piece of paper to help accentuate subtle differences in color. A professional gem lab uses a master set of pre-graded diamonds to distinguish color differences. § When selecting for clarity, ask if you can view the diamond under magnification, either using a microscope or a 10-power jeweler's loupe. With a loupe, hold the diamond with tweezers against a dark cloth, and view it under a bright light. The dark background simulates a microscope, making inclusions easier to see.
  
  
• To make your diamond appear larger, have it set "higher" and in prongs. Consult with your jeweler to avoid setting the stone so high that it hinders everyday tasks.
  
  

Buying a Marquise, Pear, Oval or Emerald Shape

• A fancy-shape diamond should be symmetrical. Both lobes of a heart-shape gem should be equal, as should the top and bottom halves of an oval stone. Baguettes, whether straight or tapered, should be uniform in length and width.
  
  
• To determine how long a fancy shape should be, cutters use a standard mathematical formula-the length-to-width ratio. This is calculated by dividing the gem's length (measured in millimeters) by its width. The acceptable range of length-to-width ratios for marquise, for example, is 1.75:1 to 2.25:1. For emerald, it is 1.30:1 to 1.60:1. Ask your jeweler about the standard length-to-width ratio of the fancy diamond you are considering.
  
  
• Marquise, pears and ovals can have a "bow tie" effect-a dark shadowy center where light escapes through the back of the stone. This is the result of inferior cutting proportions and should be avoided. Ask your retailer about the bow tie effect when selecting a fancy-shape diamond.
  
  
• Fancy diamonds with points-marquise and pears-should be set so the prongs cover the diamond's corners. This helps protect the stone from chipping.
  

Internal characteristics are more visible on an emerald-cut diamond because they have fewer facets. If you like an emerald cut, consider choosing a stone with higher clarity. Finally, says Woodring, before you purchase any significant diamond, ask if it comes with a certificate from a reputable, well-established gem laboratory, such as EGL USA. "An independent lab report evaluates the critical factors affecting the quality, beauty and value of your diamond, and will give you the assurance you need to make an informed decision."